100” DTF Transfers were $45, now only $35. Due to high demand, we’ve extended this special price for a limited time. Don’t miss out while it lasts! 🔥

DTF Supplies Collection for DTF Print Shops and Brands

This DTF Supplies Collection was built for shops that actually push meters. Film that tracks straight. Powder that melts even at 110°C without cold spots. CMYK and White DTF Ink that hits density in one pass. Plus the AlbaChem VLR 1020 you reach for when a 30-foot roll has one bad logo.

No filler SKUs. Just the consumables we trust in our own production.

High-Temperature Heat Tape for Heat Press

Tape that doesn’t melt, lift, or leave residue.
Holds transfers at 400°F without shrinking or bleeding glue. Use it for sleeves, hats, and multi-press jobs where shift means scrap. One roll lasts months. This works well because cheap tape fails at 320°F and ruins a $30 hoodie.

Grab it if you hate ghosting and crooked prints.

Teflon Protective Sheet for Heat Press

Stop scorching shirts and gunking up your platen.
Non-stick, reusable, 16x20” fits most presses. Drop it over your transfer to kill shine, block ink blowout, and protect your top platen from adhesive. We’ve used the same sheet for 3,000+ presses.

You need this if your platens are sticky or your blacks look glossy.

DTF White Ink

Your underbase is your foundation.
High-opacity, low-settle formula made for Epson and XP-600 heads. Prints smooth, no pinholes, no clogging if you shake daily. White is 70% of your ink cost. Run junk and you’ll fight banding all day.

Buy it if you’re tired of shaking bottles every hour.

DTF Yellow Ink

Bright, not muddy.
Matches PMS 109 and holds saturation on darks. Won’t shift green after cure. This works well because cheap yellow looks dirty under white. We tuned ours to stay clean at 305°F.

Stock it if your golds and yellows look washed out.

DTF Magenta Ink

Reds that pop, pinks that don’t turn orange.
High pigment load means you use less per print. Plays nice with our white — no muddy skin tones. Tested on 4.2oz blanks like Bella 3001. Holds color after 25+ washes.

Get it if your reds look brick-colored.

DTF Cyan Ink

Clean blues, no purple shift.
Prints sharp at 1440x720. Won’t clog 6-channel heads. We run this in-house daily. If your blues look navy when they should be royal, this fixes it.

Add it if your blues are lying to you.

DTF Black Ink

True rich black. Not charcoal. Not green.
High density means you don’t double-hit to get coverage. Cures matte, not shiny. Saves white ink because you’re not fighting weak black.

Order it if your blacks fade or look thin.

AlbaChem VLR Vinyl Letter Removing Solvent 20 Fl Oz

Messed up a press? Fix it.
VLR pulls vinyl, DTF, and HTV off shirts without scorching. Saves the blank. One shop saved 42 misprinted tees last month — that’s $600 back. Smells strong. Works fast.

Keep it on hand if you do customs. You will need it.

UV DTF Yellow Ink

For hard goods, not tees.
UV DTF yellow for tumblers, glass, acrylic, wood. High adhesion, no cracking. Cures instantly under UV. Don’t run this in your apparel DTF printer. Different system.

Buy it if you run a UV DTF printer for cups and signage.

UV DTF White Ink

The base layer for UV transfers.
Thick, bright, won’t spider crack on curved mugs. You need white under every color or your design goes clear. Shake well. Settle is real.

Stock it if you print UV DTF. You’ll burn through it first.

UV DTF Varnish Ink

The gloss that sells.
Flood or spot varnish for raised, scratch-resistant finishes. Makes stickers and tumblers look premium. Run it as your last channel. Clogs fast if you don’t clean.

Use it if you want that “embossed” look customers pay extra for.

UV DTF Magenta Ink

UV-stable reds and pinks for hard surfaces.
Won’t fade in sunlight like cheap ink. Matches our DTF magenta so your brand colors stay consistent across tees and tumblers.

Add it if you offer drinkware and want color match.

UV DTF Cyan Ink

Clean blues for UV prints.
No banding, no nozzle drop. Made for XP600 and i3200 UV heads. Keeps blues true on glass and metal where shift shows fast.

Get it if your blues look purple on mugs.

UV DTF Black Ink

Deep black for UV DTF.
High opacity so you don’t see the cup through the ink. Lays flat under varnish. Cures hard — no tacky prints.

Buy it if your black logos look gray on tumblers.

UV Cleaning Solution

Keep your UV printer alive.
Flush lines, soak heads, clean caps. UV ink cures without heat, so clogs turn to concrete. Run this weekly or pay $800 for a new head. One bottle lasts 4–6 cleanings.

You need this if you own a UV DTF printer. Non-negotiable.

Hot Melt Glue Powder

This is what makes DTF stick.
Fine grain, medium melt point. Even coating means no cold spots or thick edges. Bonds at 300–320°F. Too coarse and you get texture. Too fine and it clouds. Ours is dialed for 4.2oz tees.

Refill if your transfers peel or feel gritty.

Do You Need DTF Supplies? Here are the Folks We Have Been Helping 

DTF Apparel Shops

If you print daily, you’re burning white ink, powder, and tape faster than you think. A 4 Head DTF Printer will run through 6 liters of white every 3–4 weeks at 300 shirts a day. Order ink and film before you’re dry. Overnight shipping costs more than the ink itself, and downtime kills deadlines. Keep one full set of CMYK + White, 2 rolls of 24” film, and 25kg of powder on the shelf. That’s your minimum safety stock.

UV DTF Printers

Running tumblers, glass, acrylic, or signage? You need a full UV setup: CMYK + White + Varnish + cleaner. White gives opacity on dark blanks. Varnish adds the raised texture and gloss customers pay for. Cleaner keeps your heads alive between jobs. Miss one and you’re down, scrambling for parts while orders stack up. Cheetah DTF bundles these so you’re not stuck mid-run with no white channel.

New Shops

Starting out? Get the full CMYK + White DTF set, medium-grain powder, high-temp tape, and a Teflon sheet. That’s your real starter kit, not just the printer. Add VLR or cleaning solution because mistakes happen and you’ll need to flush lines. Budget for a humidifier too. Most new shops lose their first head to dry air, not bad ink. Buy it all upfront and you’ll actually print in week one.

Screen Printers Adding DTF

DTF isn’t plastisol and your shop supplies won’t cross over. You need PET film, hot-melt powder, DTF ink profiles, and a curing oven or heat press for gel stage. Don’t try to “make it work” with screen ink, emulsion, or screens. It won’t. The processes are completely different. Treat it like a new department. Cheetah DTF sets up screen shops with color matching so DTF gang sheets look like your screen jobs.

Why Shops Buy Supplies From DTF Louisville

1. We run what we sell

Every ink, powder, and cleaner here runs in our production shop. If it clogs, shifts, or smells wrong, we don’t stock it. Simple.

2. No downtime tax

Running out of white or tape mid-order costs more than the supply itself. A $35 bottle of white can hold up a $900 job. We ship fast so you don’t eat that loss.

3. Color stays consistent

Switching ink brands mid-month shifts your colors. Customers notice. Stick with one profile. Ours is tuned for Bella 3001, Gildan 5000, and poly blends. Print today, reprint next week, same result.

And yeah, we price it so you can actually make margin.

How to Use DTF Supplies

For Heat Tape:

Tape the edges, not the art. Press once, peel, remove tape. Leave it on and you’ll get lines.

For Teflon:

Wipe it after every 20 presses. DTF glue builds up and transfers to the next shirt. One sheet lasts 6+ months if you clean it.

For DTF Ink:

Shake white daily. Run a nozzle check every morning. Let ink sit 24hrs after shipping — transit bubbles cause banding.

For Powder:

Sift it. Clumps = thick spots = cracks. Apply, shake off, cure until it looks orange-peel, not wet.

For VLR:

Work outside. Dab, wait 10 sec, peel. Wash the shirt after or it’ll stink. It saves blanks, not every design.

For UV Cleaner:

Don’t skip weekly maintenance. Pull dampers, flush, cap. A $90 bottle saves a $800 head.

Don’t Let a $4 Roll Stop a $400 Order

At DTF Louisville, we have the necessary supplies to help your inventory stay full so when it’s time, your workflow remains unhindered. Get everything you need before you run out at a wholesale price without any compromises on the quality. Add your ink, powder, tape, and sheets now.

Reorder before you’re empty and keep the press running.

 

Frequently Asked Questions

Yes if it’s an Epson L1800, XP-15000, or 1430 running DTF. It’s tuned for XP-600 and i3200 heads too. But don’t mix brands. Flush fully before switching or you’ll get sludge. Water-base DTF only — not for UV or Eco-Sol.
Depends. White is 60–70% of your usage. A liter prints roughly 250–300 full-front 12x14” designs with standard coverage. If you’re shaking and maintaining, you’ll use it before it settles. Let it sit 3 weeks and you’ll lose half to clogs.
DTF ink is water-based for fabric. Cures with heat and powder. UV DTF is UV-curable for hard goods like mugs and acrylic. Don’t cross them. You’ll kill your heads. Check the label.
Could be. If your powder’s old or clumpy, it won’t bond even. But check temp too — 300–320°F for 10–15 sec. Under-cured powder lifts. Over-cured goes brittle. Our powder melts clean in that range.
Cool, dark place, cap tight. It evaporates fast and loses strength if left open. Run it weekly even if you’re not printing. UV ink cures in the lines without light. One skipped cleaning = new dampers.
No. Tape the film edges or the shirt. Tape on the design leaves lines and can pull ink. It’s for holding stuff still, not for pressing through. Peel it before the final press if you double-hit.
Because scorching a $25 hoodie costs more. We’d rather you protect the shirt than buy another. It’s reusable 3,000+ times. Wipe it down. Don’t cut on it. That’s it.
Yes on DTF, HTV, and some screen inks. No on cured plastisol — that’s permanent. Test on a scrap first. It can pull color from cheap dyed shirts. Works best on light misprints, not full back designs.
Daily. White settles fast because of the titanium. No shake = nozzle drop = banding. If you took a week off, do a power clean and pull ink through before printing.
If you want it to last, yes. Varnish seals the ink and gives scratch resistance. Skip it and your tumbler design chips in a month. Flood coat for durability, spot varnish for texture. Customers pay more for it.